In Search of Riverdale’s Perfect Slice
Whether it's an afterschool snack or a lunchtime slice, Dino’s stands as a Riverdale classic go-to slice. But did you know there are other pizza restaurants in Riverdale? In my quest for the perfect slice, I journeyed to four different pizza restaurants in Riverdale.
Dave Portnoy, a famous food reviewer who is famous for his Pizza Festival, has remarked that it only takes “one bite” to judge a good slice. I disagree. Guiding my review is my belief that one has to try the entire slice–and even multiple types of slices–to get the fullest picture. Real food lovers, like myself, always find any excuse to eat more, so perhaps it’s unsurprising that I tried all three of my favorite slices: Sicilian, Grandma, and Plain at each joint.
Salvatores Of Soho: C
Address 3738 Riverdale Ave. Bronx, NY 10463
This slice joint/sit-down restaurant is located across the street from Fieldston. Perhaps I’m biased by my RCS school spirit, but Sal’s was the worst out of the four restaurants. I would sooner eat the school lunch pizza before spending money on a Sal’s slice.
While the restaurant did feel cozy and clean, the pizza, on the other hand, was not appetizing in any way. There were maybe seven options total and they all looked days old. The Plain slice was comparable to a boring Domino’s version, and, while the sauce and cheese were mediocre, the dough was the main problem. It lacked any crispness and was soggy. The slices could barely hold shape.
Marrianes Pizza: B-
Address: 6100 Riverdale Ave Bronx, NY 10471
A relatively new addition to Riverdale’s pizza scene, my first stop was Marrianes Pizza, which recently opened on August 18th, 2023. Originally Nona’s Pizza, a former employee, took ownership and changed the name this past summer, while keeping the recipes and crew the same.
Of the four locations I visited, this one was the most visually appealing: The restaurant had brick walls making the place feel very welcoming to sit and enjoy a slice. The food, however, was not as good. The Sicilian slice was below average, with cheese peeling off the dough and burnt crust. However, props for the Grandma slice–it had a nice garlicky red sauce that separated it from other options I tried.
What I view as the “make or break slice,” the Plain was a not-so-solid C+. The dough, cheese, and sauce were all standard, but the ratio of cheese to sauce ruined the slice as a whole.
Addeo’s Riverdale Pizza: B+
Address: 5654 Riverdale Ave, Bronx, NY 10471
Three generations ago, Lorenzo Addeo immigrated to New York from Naples and founded Addeo’s Bakery on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx. A few years later, the Addeo Family would open Addeo’s Riverdale Pizza. At this point, the place is crying out for a renovation: It was tired-looking, and the pizza display looked very old. The only redeeming factor was the mini statue of an iconic Kitsch chef holding condiments at the register.
When “bakery,” is in the location’s name, the dough should be delicious. Thankfully, it was. While the Sicilian was a C overall, the dough was light and fluffy on the inside and crispy on the outside. My main quarrel was the cheese tasting like glue.
Instead of Grandma, since they were sold out, I tried Pepperoni, which was similar to the Plain. I found these slices to be cooked thoroughly, unlike the Sicilian, with average sauce. While the sauce had the essence of tomatoes, there was no special “oomf” about it. The dough was what separated this slice from the others: It was well seasoned, light and had a cracker-like crispness to it.
Dino’s: A
Address: 5660 Mosholu Ave. Bronx, NY 10471
Did you know Dino’s supplies RCS with an average of 30 pies a week? Fun fact: The most pies ever delivered to the school was 150 in one week.
Dino’s has been open for 40 years, but in 2004, the location was bought by its current owners Sal and his family. Sal kept the name because, according to him, “Everyone knows Dino’s.”
Now, onwards to the review: The Sicilian slice was exceptional, with a nice fluffy dough and caramelized cheese. Meanwhile, the Grandma had a good crust and cheese but the added tomatoes overpowered the slice.
Last, but definitely not least, the Plain slice is arguably one of the best slices I have ever had. Everything from the cheese to the crust was perfect. So perfect, in fact, that I consumed eight slices in one sitting.
